Men’s Shirt Drafting – Sewing Tutorial

mens-shirt

shirt is a sort of top, i.e. a piece of clothing for the trunk of the body.

In the UK, it refers almost exclusively to what Americans call a dress shirt, i.e. a garment with a collar and a full vertical opening with buttons. In the US is tends to have a vaguer meaning, being applied to many types of (mainly men’s) tops, leaving the word “top” generally for ladies wear.Click here to know more about men’s formal shirt.

You will need the following things before we start:

  • Basic sewing needs
  • 1.5 to 2 meters of a suitable fabric
  • Interfacing canvas fabric for collar
  • Buttons

Next fabric selection… most of us choose Natural Fabrics like cotton, Corduroy, Denim, Flannel, Hemp, Leather, Linen, Seersucker, Silk, Terrycloth and Velvet. Some of us choose different types of Synthetic Fabrics like Acetate, Acrylic, Nylon, Polar Fleece, Polyester, Rayon and Spandex.

Required measurement for Men’s shirt Drafting – bodice:

Back shirt length-

Chest-

Shoulder-

Neck to chest-

Shoulder to chest-

If you want to know the standard measurement details for men..Click here.

mens-shirt-draft

Men’s Shirt bodice draft details:

0-1 = Back length

0-2 = Neck to chest

0-3 = Yoke height = 2 ½”

0-4 = 1/6th of Neck round + 5/8

4-5 = 1/8th of Neck round

0-6 = ½ shoulder

6-7 = ¾” Connect 5-7

3-8 = 0-6 Shape 8-7

8-9 = ¼” down Shape 3-9

2-10 = 3-8

2-11 = ½” chest + 2¾”

11-12 = 2-10

12-13 = 15/8” above

14 is midpoint of 2-11

1-15 = 2-11

16 is midpoint of 1-15. Connect 14-16

Point 2” above from 16 as 17

18 is midpoint of 14-17

18’ & 18” is 1” away from 18

17’ & 17” is ¾” away from 17

Connect 17’-18’-14 and 17”-18”-14

1’ is midpoint of 1-16 and 15’ is midpoint of 15-16

Shape 1-1’-17” and 15-15’-17’ as shown in draft.

11-19 = Shoulder to Chest

19-20 = 1/6 Neck round – ¼”

19-21 = 1/6 Neck round

Draw horizontal reference line from 3-8 to the right about halfway to line 19-15

Draw vertical line from 12 (this should cross 13) to meet the above reference line and mark that meet point as 22.

Measure 5-7 then less 1/8” from that measurement.Pivot your ruler around on point 20 until it intersects with the vertical line 12-22 at the measurement you just found and mark this meeting point as 23. Connect 20-23.

Shape armhole 9-14 and take extra inside ½” between (13-23) at front armhole.

(21-24) & (15-25) = 1¾” for button and buttonhole stand. Connect 15-25-24-21

Mark ¼” up from point 24 and shape as shown in draft.

Now the shirt bodice draft is ready… then you have to cut drafts separately with this cutting line reference:

Yoke Piece: 0-5-7-8-3

Shirt Back: 3-9-14-18”-17”-1’-1

Shirt Front: 25-24-21-20-23-13-14-18’-17’-15’-15-25

mens-shirt-cutting-line

First cut the draft and mark this draft to the fabric with seam allowance of ¼” all around the cutting lines except hemlines. Give ¾” seam allowance for hem line. (Hem lines are 1-1’-17” & 25-15-15’-17’)

Now u have to cut 1 piece of Front right, front left, back and 2 pieces of Yoke.

Note:  *Some people prefer to place fusible interfacing in the buttonhole placket too. If you like that, cut out a rectangular strip that is as wide and just as long as your buttonhole placket.

Collar, Sleeve, Cuff and Sewing Instructions are in our next Tutorials….

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  1. Aung Thu Hein

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