Kota doria or kota saris is one of many of sari garment it made at kota Rajasthan and in Uttar prades and its nearby area saris are made of pure cotton and silk have square like patterns known as khats on them. The chequered weave of a kota sari is very popular they are very fine weaves and weigh very less.
Kota doria is woven on a traditional pit loom in such a fashion that is produce square checks pattern on the fabric the delicately wrought checks are locally known as that they smear onion juice and rice pate with a lot of core into the yarn making the yarn so strong that no additional finishing is needed.
The process of of weaving is supported by a number of activities like winding, warping, dying, sizing
Etc. Cotton as well as silk obtained from the traders of kaithan, kota, and other parts of the country in the form of hanks (lachhis) these require future processing before being put on the loom for weaving the process involved are
Pirm winding is the process of transforming the yarns from the hanks into spools of the shuttles used in the yarns from the hanks into spools of the shattels used in the weft while weaving pirm winding is also done for zari thread silk thread used for value addition during the weaving process pirn winding is achieved by using a small swift consisting of rotary wheal attached to harness on conveyor belt giving a similar rotary motion to the spool mounted at the other end. Rotation of the wheel by hands results in the rotation of the spool and thereby the thread is wound on small spindles.
Warping is done for preparing the yarn to be used in the warp. The warping method used in kaithun is known as “peg warping” since wooden pegs are used in the process these wooden pegs locally known as pinjers are placed along the whole length of the yarn so that a continuously criss-crossed set of two yarns may be obtained for the weaving process. The criss crossing later on helps in finding cut the broken yarn on the loom during the course of weaving. These wooden peg are placed below a thick rope tied to a pair of iron pegs on each and it is the lengthen of the rope that determines the length of the warp being prepared presently this length is 30 yards, keeping in mind that at a time 5 saris of 6 yards each are woven on a loom. Thus keeping a margin for wastage etc.
Usually all the actively is done in the open spaces or by the weavers either by the non weaving family members or by other hired persons, usually old-aged women of the village.
This look very pretty after weaving, their small check patterns attract us and we can multiple use of this fabric like dress material, in today’s’ scenario peoples are using for furnishing items like curtain etc. It gives transparency look