Fabric Folding Methods for Drafting

You’ve got your pattern and your fabric to make your sewing project. How do you go about cutting it out? Before taking your scissor there are a few little things to do first…like press the fabric with iron, paper drafting, Fabric Folding properly…

Among the above things fabric folding is most important because it helps to make a cutting process more quickly. Fabric can be folded in a variety of ways it depends upon the pattern. The fold that results in the most economic use of the fabric.

Cloth Folding for Bodies Cutting

Double Fold Length & Widthwise (Bodice)

Take the cloth fold lengthwise by right sides facing together such that the raw edges of the cloth are on top of each other (2 layers). Then fold again width wise such that the selvages are together (4 layers).

Fabric Folding for Sleeves and Kameez

Single Fold / Double Fold

Take the cloth, fold lengthwise by right sides facing together such that the raw edges of the cloth are on top of each other (2 layers). Then fold again lengthwise such that the folded portion and raw edges are together (4 layers).
Note: We can use this folding method if the Width of Fabric is enough for the length of Kameez (Tops) or Sleeve.

Fabric Folding for salwar & Dress

Salwar fabric folding

Take the cloth, fold lengthwise by right sides facing together such that the raw edges of the cloth are on top of each other (2 layers). Then fold again widthwise such that the selvedges are together (4layers).
Note: We can use this folding method if the Width of Fabric is less than the folded length (2 layers).

Fabric Folding For Churidar Salwar/Dothi salwar:

Churidar Salwar/Dothi salwar Folding

 (Always cut on bias for Churidar Salwar) Take the cloth fold lengthwise by right sides facing together such that the raw edges of the cloth are on top of each other (2 layers). Then fold again crosswise (breadth wise) (4 layers).
Note: For Churidar we need more fabric than the normal or plain Salwar for the flexibility and gathers at bottom.

Special Cross Folding Method

Cross Fabric Folding

For Churidar Salwar: If we do not have enough length of fabric for Churidar Salwar, we can use this type of folding for the flexibility and gathers at bottom. Take the cloth.. Fold lengthwise by right sides facing together such that the raw edges of the cloth are on top of each other (2 layers). Then fold again crosswise as mentioned in the above picture (not exact crosswise) (4 layers).
Note: In this folding sometimes we have to cut the portions of gathers at bottom (no need of crosswise cloth) separately, because of the fabric shortage.

14 thoughts on “Fabric Folding Methods for Drafting”

    1. Yes…Manisha..it is very important for learners to avoid more material waste… Thanks again..for the support..

  1. hello madam, after cutting sleeves,front and back cloth after marking side slit.. on what measurement basis inside stitch has to be done from sleeve till side slit to get proper fitting. Is it same for all measurements

  2. Hi can you please tell what difference it makes if we are stiching a kameez (as in kameez for a shalwar) length wise or if we are stiching it width wise(usually in case of less fabric) does it effect the fitting?

    1. Usually we are using length wise because of the pattern in fabric. Drafting and Lycra fabric(expandable fabric) affects fitting otherwise we can use fabric either length wise or width wise.

  3. Wow. Your blog is amazing.. I have just started learning to stitch and your blog is gonna help me alot. Thank you so much for such simple and clear understanding.

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