The Reformer of THE FORMS AND NEW SILHOUETTES
First Fashion magazine:
Fashion represents the time and culture in which we live. The Belle Epoque lasted from 1890-1914 when the First World War breaks out. Before that, Europe has a period of great economic prosperity. Technological advances such as electricity and telephone led to the development of communications as well first fashion magazines. Magazines produce easily the fashion can be in different places at the same time.
First appearing fashion magazines as Vogue and HARPER’S Bazaar in America, arising from the need of American wealthier classes to acquire the traits of nobility in Paris.
Garments through the day:
Ladies must change their garments throw the day changing the dresses for morning, afternoon, for a visit, for night, and dress for the theater, following a strict etiquette.
At the beginning of the XX century and before the First War World France and England were living what was named the “Belle Époque”. That name was used because of the richness; extravagance and luxury people. By that time lived traveling, having parties, and with a high consumption, and a taste for progress was the style life for those days. Those extravagances were reflected on the garments style shapes. Magnificence was seen on “the watch form” and the “S”, also elaborated head forms as well.
So Poiret reform this magnificence style installing a new freedom style (that keeps the Haute Couture till now).
Poiret changed those inappropriate “polison” and rigid corsets. For a new silhouette achieved this with high waist cut and fabrics with great fall with embroidery. The clothing responded to the Belle Époque where corset silhouette through rigid materials (changed today for comfortable materials) sported luxury. Despite the rigid corset, skirt locked incorporated from Poiret as the name suggests does not allow freedom as Poiret look after.
The corset made at that time by high rigidity assumed that the body does not move when subjected to this form.
Corsets was made at that time with materials that doesn’t be done now a day. Poiret install the magnificence of embroidery, kimonos, coats, ornaments turbans and jackets with a marked oriental style.
Poiret reformulated the natural silhouette.
Is the beginning with Poiret and then Chanel that create the phenomenon fashion as a social and commercial as we know it today.
Followers of fashion couture Poiret clients were declining with the arrival of the First World War. The garments were sober and simplified.
While this trend imposed by Poiret was destined to privileged upper class influence in today’s Haute Couture is marked. The corset with rigidity of those times was gradually abandoned by the female audience as a whole.
At the end of the First Decade, with the imminence of war, the introduction of women in working life, the struggle for the vote, begin using tailored suit, free of ornamentation, jacket and skirt a little shorter teaching shoes and blouse.
This Belle Epoque period of progress culminates in the First World War in 1914.
Men and women began wearing clothes all day with no frills, showing a slim silhouette, using tailored suit, coats military cut. Meanwhile in High Fashion scarce materials and designers lose prominence.
Being then installed a new silhouette, simple, showing the figure of a totally different way than the female audience used.
Example of data sheet for performing serially garments. The customer could select from this tab the garment were illustrated.
Women can choose the model that prefers on the magazine with a code number that has the dress or coat she want to have.
Poiret was the pioneer of designers, also creates his fashion house, their mark, and has all the high society female clients. But unfortunately he must close. He continued working as an illustrator.