Saree Blouse Tutorial

Saree or sari is the traditional wear in South Asia especially in India. It has different ways of wearing style that depends upon the state, region and community. The sari is the most elegant and beautiful wear. It can be worn for different occasions, in different ways to give you a different look each time. Saree is always worn with Blouse. Here is the tutorial for the Saree Blouse.

Blouse Measurement:

Back length                                                                                        Front length

Chest                                                                                                     Waist

Shoulder                                                                                             Point length (or) ½ chest + 1” approx.,

Distance between points                                                             Across back

Across front                                                                                      Armhole

Top sleeve                                                                                          Sleeve length

Round arm                                                                                         Front neck depth

Back neck depth

Blouse Material Calculation:

2 length + 1 sleeve length + 4” SA

blouse back draft

Blouse Pattern Constructions:

Blouse Back Part Pattern

(0-1) = length

(0-2) = Armhole depth

  • 1/5 chest for up to 30” chest measurement.
  • ¼ chest – 1/15 chest for 30” to 35.5” of chest measurement.
  • 1/6 chest for 35.5” and above chest measurement.

(2-3)     = Chest line = ¼ chest +1¾”

(1-4)     = Waist line = ¼ waist + 2 cms for dart.                                P is the mid point of (1-4)

(P-Q)    = dart length = 3” to 3½”

(R-P)    = (P-S) = 1cm

(0-5)     & (2-6’) = ½ shoulder

(5-6)     = shoulder drop = 1cm

(0-7)     = 1/12th chest

(0-8)     = Back neck depth as desired

(0-7’)    = 1/8th chest – 1.5cms                                  7’ is on the line (7-6)

(6-5’)    = shoulder is pushed in by 2cms for low neck measurements.

(6’-B)    = ½ across back.                                              Shape armhole from 5’-B-3

Measure 5’-B-3 should be equal to ½ armhole (+/- 0.5cm)

Cutting line:

8-7’-5’-B-3-4-1   (8-1) on fold.

Blouse front draft

Blouse Front Part Pattern

(0-1) = front length

(0-2), (0-5), (2-6), (0-7), (0-7’), (6-5), (2-3), (6-5’) & (1-4) same as back construction

(0-10)  = Point length (or) ¼chest + 2cms

(10-11)                = ½distance between points

(11-12)                = (10-1)

(1-15)  = 5cms                                 (4-16)  = 3cms

(0-9)    = front neck depth

(9-9’)    = 1.5cms inside

Join (9’-15)                        Join (15-12) & (16-12)

Diagonal line for a normal figure & curved line for a heavier figure.

Blouse Darts:

Centre Big Dart:

(12-14)                = (12-13) = 3cms for sizes upto 90cms

= 4cms for sizes above 90cms

(11-17)                = 1.5cms

Dart length (17-12) should be approximately 6cms.

Centre Front Dart:

(10-18)                = 0.5cm an either side

18 is 1.5cms from 11.

Armhole Dart:

(3-20)  = 1/12 of chest    0.5cm on either sides of 20.

21 is 3cms from 17.

(2-A)     = (6’-B) = 1/3of (6-6’).      (A-B) = ½across front.

Shape 5’-B-3 front armhole curve.

Measure 5’-B-3 it should be more than actual armhole by 1cm.

5’-B-3 front armhole curve is a deeper curve than the back armhole curve.

Waist Line:

Measure (15-12) and mark the same as (12-19). If (15-12) is 4” means mark (12-19) 4”.

Join (3-19) side seam.

(13-15) + (14-19) = ¼waist + 2cms

Cutting Line:

9’-7’-5’-13-3-19-12-5-9’

ladies saree waist darft

WAIST BAND:

(1-2)     = ¼waist

(2-3)     = (3-4) of back draft – (3-19) of front draft

(1-4)     = (12-13) +2cms                             6 is the mid point of (1-2)

(5-6)     = (12-13) – 1.5cms

(3-3’)    = 1.5cms outside                                             Join (3’-2)

(1-2) can be taken on fold.

sleeve cutting draft

Blouse Sleeve Pattern:

(0-1) = sleeve length

(0-2) = 1/12 chest +2cms

(2-3)     = ½ top sleeve + 1.5cms (or) (0-2) of body draft + 1.5cms

(1-4)     = ½ round arm

Join (0-3) and divide into 4 equal parts at a, b, c

(a-a’)     = 1.5cms outside

(b-b’)    = 0.5cms outside

(c-c’)     = 0.5cms inside

(c-c’’)    = 1.5cms inside

Shape back armhole curve (0-a’-b’-c’-3)

Shape front armhole curve (0-a’-b’-c’’-3)

SEAM ALLOWANCE:

0.5cms at neck line

1cm at armhole curve and waist band hemline

1.5cms at shoulder line

2 to 2.5cms at side seam and back part hemline

1cm at waist band and Centre Front.

blouse paper cutting

Blouse Stitching Instructions:

  • 2 Straight pieces for hook strips and Bias (cross pieces) for neckline has to be cut with appropriate measurements.
  • First 2 small darts have to stitch at the back part straight to the shoulders.
  • Then the main three darts have to be stitched carefully in the front part. The dart stitched at the bottom should be bigger that the 2 darts at the left and right sides.
  • The Waist band part has to be stitched after stitching the three main darts, the front part has to be stitched to the Waistband part. After attaching the Waist band to front part the length is equals to the back part.
  • Turn the front pieces wrong side out and sew along the hemlines (separately) with 1cm seam allowance. Turn right side out and press.
  • Now have to attach the straight pieces to make the hook straps at the either side of front opening.
  • Time to attach shoulders of front and back parts correctly.
  • Sleeves have to be added with blouse. First finish the hemline of sleeves and attach the left and right sleeves to the blouse.
  • Now attach the side seams using 2cms seam allowance. Stitch has to start from the hemline of sleeve and ends with the hem line of blouse.
  • The neckline has to be fished with bias (cross piece) piece.
  • Attach hook and lock on an either hook strips at front opening.

Keerthi Ezhil

I am a person with interested in sewing & fashion. I am always thinking about the wasted materials... Whenever I crossed the tailor shops I felt bad..that wasted materials also bought for money..these thoughts push me up to learn sewing. afterwards i improved my talent to do fashionable dresses for my daughter.. I always mentioned to use the leftover materials to use small pouch, handbag, little girls dress, small accessories...for my students. Now that experience took me to the next level.. Here I'm going to share my experience to all of u through these tutorials.

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75 Responses

  1. Harini says:

    Hi,
    I love sewing and really your website is more helpful for the begginer.. I have a request, If possible, please post Men’s shirt pattern.(how to draw the pattern ) Step by step.. Its more helpful for me and the followers.
    Thank you.

    • Keerthi Ezhil says:

      Thanks for your comment Harini… Men’s shirt tutorial should be in my future tutorial… Thanks to remind..

      • kanimozhi says:

        Nanum tailoring kathukitan but cutting and stitching oluga vara mattengudu please help pannuga

        • Keerthi Ezhil says:

          Hi.. Kani mozhi… alagaana peyar… intha blog-la irukkara tutorials try panni paarunga… and practice makes us perfect… Happy sewing…

  2. Anitha says:

    Hi kirthi.very help full vedeo..I tried a blouse according to your draft.mother come out perfect but I had only one prob in armhole round. .it was loose n bulging.how do I rectify it?kindly let me know. Once again thx for ur tutorial

    • Keerthi Ezhil says:

      Hi.. Anitha.. Thanks for or comment..this will helpful for readers..
      For armhole adjustment u should move the line(2-3) towards up for tight fit.. u should compare the measurement with ur old blouse while drafting because some time measurements are depends upon the person..

      • indhu says:

        I had only one prob in armhole round.plz help panunga..perfect arm hole ku 44” body ku evalavu inch arm hole edhukanum madam plz help me…….

  3. rosemary says:

    very useful

  4. dharshu says:

    Hi.. Mam nicely explained..I need 6′-B measurement in back part how to draw this..1/2 across back means what?size i used is waist 30” armhole 16” overall length 13” chest 34”

  5. anithasundarraj says:

    hello hi madam ,i am s.anitha from padi .i want some tips for blouse and chudi .bcoz i have two daughters . i am interesting in tailoring so give tips and more videos send mail id mam.

  6. devi says:

    Hi keerthi mam, v.useful for ur explained.then I want how to stitch the Saree blouse step by step includes the final finishing step.please send the videos its v.useful for me and the follow ers.thank u mam.ple reply.

  7. Rani says:

    Hi Keerthi, do you have any video clips on how to sew this blouse.

  8. pushpa says:

    Very useful information. Tutorials help me to cut blouse .

  9. Wijaya says:

    Hi Keerthi please the measurements are given inches or cm. thanks.

  10. Rani says:

    Hi Kèerthi….very useful info for beginners like me. Can you post on how to cut and stich puff slèeves. Thanks

    • Keerthi Ezhil says:

      hi.. Rani… now i’m preparing some other tutorials.. so.. that could be our future one.. thank u.. happy sewing..

  11. Arshana says:

    If You can Please email me the 28 and 30 sari blouse pattern

  12. Kausi says:

    Mam nice site. Pl guide me how to alter readymade saree blouse …where shoulder is loose ..keeps falling

  13. Anu says:

    Hi mam!can u draw the picture for stitching chudithar!!!!
    It’s a good website for womens.
    Reply pls mam

  14. Harini says:

    Hi Keerthi,

    This tutorial is very good. If You can Please email me the 32 and 36 sari blouse pattern with the sleeve. hanks, Harini
    My email is hlusha24@gmail.com

  15. mini says:

    Very helpful thank you

  16. shamima says:

    Thnx for the tutorial…. Mam, I can’t understand the measurement of 6′-B… 1/2 across back means what? Waiting for your reply… Thank you mam…

    Reply

  17. Kiran Bora says:

    Hi i have a wrkshop of designer wear of women, you change my mind today there is lots of waste material in my shop, we throw all but now today onwards i m going to create new things from the waste.
    Also i m totally dependant into my masterji but i m promiseing my self to start my learning again for better way .
    Thank you mam.
    Kiran bora

  18. Subhadra Ravi says:

    Hi Madam, I liked your tutorial. Method is simple and easy to understand for learners. I am interested in stitching blouses and kurtis for my daughters. Can you also throw some light on cutting and stitching of simple anarkali kurtis. Thank you.

  19. Jayashri says:

    *plz send me videos princess cut peper cutting, fabric cutting & stiching method

  20. suresh babu kolla says:

    madam u have shown the measurements in some places as centimetres. whether all the measurements should be taken in cms or only where it is menttioned only. generally body measurements are taken in inches.please clarify.suresh babu

  21. Seetha says:

    Good explanation. Do you offer online class? I learnt tailoring long time ago. Now I want to refresh the stitching knowledge and also would like to learn some new skills. Pls. email me at seebha2010@gmail.com. Thanks.

  22. Pallavi says:

    If there is some mistake in cutting line of front part, it seems me so..please help

  23. VIDHYA says:

    Madam, very useful tutorial. Mam i would like to meet you is you are in chennai. I am interested in learning machine embroidery. Any body can come home and teach me. What machine is suitable for it. I am residing in adyar.

  24. Latha says:

    Hi mam, is the measurements includes seeming allowance also. If not how much we have to leave. Pls guide me. Thank u

  25. S says:

    Hi mam

    Good tutorial good effort..really appreciate ur intrest.. Im totally new to this n i want to learn. Im a beginer so i dint understand the tailoring measurements properly ..i was thinking like 1/6th of total chest measurement i.e., 1/6*number(chestsize).. Am i correct ..please let me knw.. Would also like to knw how did u get 1/6 1/12 …can i use this for all blouses with diff sizes? If i knw this i can proceed with other measurements in same way..Thanku
    ” 1/6 chest for 35.5” and above chest measurement.”

  26. Lata Sundar says:

    Hi
    what changes do we need to make if the front and back neck is very deep? The finished shoulder width is 4 cms , front neck depth is 19 cms and back neck depth is : 27 from shoulder

    Appreciate your help.

  27. Nandhini says:

    Hi Your blog is so useful for me and I have a doubt ,In back pattern is 6′-B half across back or A-B half across back . Correct me if I m wrong

  28. Sathya Madeshwara says:

    Hi Ezhil, your tutorial is very usefull, but i still don’t understand 6′ – B please give more detailed information or What could be the approximate value for this?

  29. Shruthi Arunkumar says:

    it is very usefull thanks

  30. Diya says:

    Hi the chest line (2-3) is marked this is full bust measurement. This coincides with the end of arm syce. Where as in reality the full bust is not where the arm syce ends. The full bust can be lower, so in this case won’t there be excess fabric under arm ? How do you draft for this case please suggest. Also thanks for sharing so many nice tutorials on your blog.

  31. dhivya karthikeyan says:

    hai keerthi madam, i was saw this website for my mother. she is stiching 10 years. but she does’nt knows a normal blouse measurements. but now this website helps in many way thankyou madam for your kind social helps.

  32. rianat says:

    Comment Text*i love this,well done

  33. Rangana says:

    Marvelous….thankyou mam

  34. spandan says:

    i have problem with sholder measurement, when i go with half of sholder for back deep neck (10″ or 10+) then alway happening sholder fall problem. so plz give me the solution for the best sholder measurements, aso arm,
    if chest 36 – 38
    west – 30 – 32
    sleeve hight – 4 – 5
    round – 5.5 – 6.5

    • Keerthi Ezhil says:

      hi spandan.. if u go with deep neck u should reduce your neck width by 1/4″ to 1/2″ to avoid widen shoulders.

  35. vidot says:

    j ‘aimerais le faire mais c’est pas expliquer en français

  36. riznan says:

    madam ,
    இதை அப்படியே தமிழில் தரமுடியுமா பளீஸ்

  37. riznan says:

    Comment Text*idai appadiye tamilil thara mudiyuma madam pls ,yennaipol iruppavargalukku help a irukkum

  38. riznan says:

    Madam idhai appadiye tamilil tharamudiyuma ,pls yennaippol ullavargalukku help a irukkum.

  39. Chandini says:

    Hi…I am a starter and i really want to learn to stitch a blouse. Is it possible to do so by following the steps you have said about on your website? Can you give me some tips to learn to stitch properly?

  40. vidot says:

    bonjour je ne comprend pas votre langue mais serait il possible de m envoyer par mail le patron de taille 36 a 46 s’il vous plait

  41. R.K.BHARATHI says:

    hai this is Bharathi,
    I want pattern of mermaid frock/skirt for girls

  42. Sathya says:

    Hi mam
    Pls tell me whether the seaming allowance is alloted in the calculation or we have to leave after marking the measurements…

  43. D says:

    Please send me bouse pattern for 40 and 42.
    email is deeptihemender@gmail.com

  44. Kausar says:

    Hi iam kausar i would like to stitch perfect blouse

  45. Anne Thomas says:

    Hey Kirthi,, Can you tell the average meter required for a sari blouse… a blouse with elbow sleeve and boat neck in the front and back.. I mean. Will 0.80 meter be sufficient?

  46. Kanimozhi says:

    Very clear instruction for beginners. Very good blog.

  47. Kiruthi Logu says:

    Hi Keerti, Really very nice.
    While wearing the blouse,in the joining of shoulder and hand there is some raise. How to correct? Kindly help me

  48. Excellent site to learn . Wow. Very generous of you to share them free to all . God Bless you and your family for all that you do

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