Straight Kameez Cutting-Sewing Tutorial

Straight Kameez (Tops) Tutorial

Kameez is a traditional costume of Punjab. It is used along with Salwar, Churidar or denim pants. The neckline can be shaped according to fashion. This garment is basically cut into three pieces, the front, back and sleeve. Darts are used to give fit or shape to the garment.

The construction of this tutorial may look long but it is very easy, just follow the instructions and you will end up with your own Kameez top.

Measurement:

Length  –

Chest     –

Shoulder-

Waist length-

Hip length-

Waist –

Hip         –

Armhole-

Sleeve length-

Round arm-

Neck width-

Front & Back Neck depth-

Material Required:

1¼ Mtrs

Straight Kameez body draftConstruction: Front

(0-1)      = Kameez length (desired length)

(0-2)      = Armhole depth = ¼ chest – 1”(for Medium figure) or 2”(for heavier figure)

(2-3)      = Chest line = ¼ chest + 1” (for Tight fit) or 2” (for loose fit)

(5-6)      = Shoulder drop = 1cm

(0-5) & (2-6’) = ½ shoulder

(0-7)      = Neck width

(0-9)      = Front neck depth

X is mid point of 6-6’.                      (x-x’)  = 1cm

Shape (6-x’-3) front armhole curve.

Measure 6-x’-3 it should be more than ½ armhole by 3 to 4cms.

(0-10)   = waist length

(10-11)= ¼ waist + 1” or 2” (same as chest line)

(0-12)   = Hip length

(12-13)= Hip line = ¼ hip+2”

(1-4)      = same as hip line

(4-4’)     = 1” up for shaping.         Join (1-4’) hem line

(4’-13) = Slit opening (Slit should not cross the Hip line)

Cutting line:

9-7-6-x’-3-11-13-4’-1                    (9-1) on fold

Construction: Back

(0-1)      = Kameez length

(0-2)      = Armhole depth = ¼ chest – 1”(for Medium figure) or 2”(for heavier figure)

(2-3)      = Chest line = ¼ chest + 1” (for Tight fit) or 2” (for loose fit)

(5-6)      = Shoulder drop = 1cm

(0-5) & (2-6’) = ½ shoulder

(0-7)      = Neck width

(0-8)      = Back neck depth

(8-8’)     = Back slit opening =  1/6 chest + 1”

X is mid point of 6-6’.

Shape (6-x-3) front armhole curve.

Measure 6-x-3 it should be more than ½ armhole by 3 to 4cms.

(0-10)   = waist length

(10-11)= ¼ waist + 1” or 2” (same as chest line)

(0-12)   = Hip length

(12-13)= Hip line = ¼ hip+2”

(1-4)      = same as hip line

(4-4’)     = 1” up for shaping.         Join (1-4’) hem line

(4’-13) = Slit opening (Slit should not cross the Hip line)

Cutting line:

8-7-6-x-3-11-13-4’-1                     (8-1) on fold

Cut 8-8’ on fold for back neck slit opening (Neck slit opening need only at the circumference of head is lesser than neck circumference)

Straight Kameez sleeve draftConstruction: Sleeve 

(0-1)  = Sleeve length

(0-2)  = 1/8 chest – 1½”

(2-3)  = ¼ chest – ¾”

(1-4)      = ½round arm

Join (3-4) under arm seam

Join (0-3)

X is the mid point of (0-3)

Take (x-x’) = 2 to 2.5cms up

Shape 0-x-3 front armhole curve

Shape 0-x’-3 front armhole curve

Cutting line:

1-4-3-x’-0   then cut through the first 2 layers 0-x-3

Seam Allowance:

¼” on neck line, armhole and back neck slit open

1” on side seams

1½” on hemlines

Sewing Instructions:

1. Take 2 Pieces of Kameez (Front and Back) 2 Pieces of Sleeve (Right and Left) and 2 rectangular pieces for Neck facing.
1. Take 2 Pieces of Kameez (Front and Back) 2 Pieces of Sleeve (Right and Left) and 2 rectangular pieces for Neck facing.

Click HERE to know about the Folding instructions for Kameez and sleeves.

2. Place the neck facing rectangular pieces for the front and back Kameez pieces respectively. Make sure that the right sides are together. Pin and sew along the neck line with ¼” seam allowance. Cut the excess of facing pieces and make notches on seam. Then turn right sides out and press. Give topstitch at neckline.

2. Place the neck facing rectangular pieces for the front and back Kameez pieces respectively. Make sure that the right sides are together. Pin and sew along the neck line with ¼” seam allowance. Cut the excess of facing pieces and make notches on seam. Then turn right sides out and press. Give topstitch at neckline.

3.Place Kameez front and back pieces by facing right sides together and sew along the shoulder line to joint the two Kameez pieces together.
3. Place Kameez front and back pieces by facing right sides together and sew along the shoulder line to joint the two Kameez pieces together.
4. Fold the hemline of sleeve by ¼” inside and fold again ¾” inside and sew along the hemline at the edge of first folding.
4. Fold the hemline of sleeve by ¼” inside and fold again ¾” inside and sew along the hemline at the edge of first folding.
5.Place the Sleeves right side on the top of Kameez armhole area respectively. Pin it and sew along with ¼” armhole seam allowance.
5. Place the Sleeves right side on the top of Kameez armhole area respectively. Pin it and sew along with ¼” armhole seam allowance.
6.Turn Kameez wrong side out and sew along with 1” side seam allowance as right sides together (Start from Sleeve’s hemline and stop at the Hip line of Kameez)
6. Turn Kameez wrong side out and sew along with 1” side seam allowance as right sides together (Start from Sleeve’s hemline and stop at the Hip line of Kameez).
7.Fold at the slit opening ¼” inside and fold ¼” again. Then sew along the slit opening of both sides. Press with iron.
7. Fold at the slit opening ¼” inside and fold ¼” again. Then sew along the slit opening of both sides. Press with iron.
8. Fold the hemline ½” inside and fold 1” again. Then sew along the edge of first fold on hemline.
8. Fold the hemline ½” inside and fold 1” again. Then sew along the edge of first fold on hemline.

Now the Kameez Top is ready…..

94 thoughts on “Straight Kameez Cutting-Sewing Tutorial”

  1. Thank you very much for salwar kameez cutting..
    Pls teach us different types of neck pattern also.how to cut.and…stich.

  2. Am slightly fatter on stomach not much how much loose to measure kameez length is 40 have to take correct measurement

    1. Amritha prabhu u have to add 1/2″ or 1″(up to your convenience) in (10-11), (12-13) & (1-4). It will help to increase the width of your kameez’s waist part.

  3. Realy it is easy for the beginners . Thanks for giving this. before that i dont know how to stich a kameez neck. i stiched it like a blouse neck . now i fell it as a simple one. Thank u mam.

  4. Am 90kg standing 5’4″ tall aged 47yrs woman. My middle portion is very broad. So as u hav told, wearing a Patiala will make me look slimmer? How long the kameez should be

    1. Hi.. Beena.. Mam.. If u choose kameez…Plz remember the following points. It should be. *with vertical prints,stripes or lines
      *light shades
      *with full sleeve(don’t go with cap, 3/4th or sleeveless)
      *choose with broad neckline borders
      *slightly loose fit(not very loose)
      Salwar should be *in dark shades
      *narrow salwar or cigarette cut pant
      *a light weight material
      If u choose blouse use half sleeve or short sleeve

    1. Good morning.. Beena Mam… Long kurtas suits well. But U can wear above knee length kameez with narrow salwar and knee length with cigarette cut pant.

  5. Hello,
    Pls can u explain
    Where did -x come from
    And also the cutting line formula.
    1-4-3-x-0 ??? I don’t understand this
    Thanks
    Nadia

    1. Hi… Nadia…
      You should mark x at the mid point of 6-6′.
      Cutting line instruction shows where should we cut this pattern. If 1-3-4-x-6 means start from 1 continue with other mentioned point one by one & ends in 6.. I hope u can understand now… 🙂

  6. Comment Text*Dear Keerti,

    I don’t know how much i have to thank you for such a useful blog. Its really appreciated, answers for my doubts. Another problem s why my front shoulder and neck are going backward when i wear kurta. Please suggest a solution.

    1. I don’t know how much i have to thank you for such a useful blog. Its really appreciated, answers for my doubts. Another problem s why my front shoulder and neck are going backward when i wear kurta. Please suggest a solution.

    1. Keerthi Ezhil

      Hi.. Amirah.. Seam allowances not included in draft details. There is detailed seam allowance seperately.

      1. Hi Keerthi,
        Glad to see people like you helping novices like us. I was in search of detailed Kurtha making lesson and found yours blog interesting. Keep on the good work!
        I’ve a doubt should we leave Sean allowance around the curve of sleeves?

  7. Hi! Lovely tutorial. However I didnt understand if the HIP LENGTH is my hip circumference or the measurement from hip to bottom of kameez. Please help. Thanks in advance.

  8. Hi mam,
    I have stitched 2 salwar khameez..but i am facing a problem..wen i wear the khameez ,the neck goes up..why is it so..and how can i tackle it..pls explain…

    1. first check ur kameez back neck depth, that should be 1/2″ or 1″ less than front neck depth
      then Correct armhole msrmnt

  9. How to take arm hole depth. My chest measurement is 40″. In your tutorial it is given that arm hole depth is 1/4 of chest . Then it will be 10″. Pl help

    1. (0-2) = Armhole depth = ¼ chest – 1”(for chest msrmnt upto 36″) or 2”(for chest msrmnt above 36″)

  10. Hi Keerthi I cut the blouse pattern according to you’re saree blouse pattern . It came good except for the centre dart .my cup size is 42 inches

  11. Hi mam ur tutorial is good for beginners, I sew Chudi after stitching I face a problem that in my Chudi folded lines appear near waist at back side, how to correct it. Can you help me out?

    1. hi.. priya.. plz ensure ur measerments again.. and follow the procedure provided in this tutorial. if u face this problem again, make darts at back side.

  12. Wow. That was a perfect guide. Thank You. What happens to the front piece in case of maternity size? Do let me know.

    1. Hi.. shaheena.. yes you are right … you have to subtract 3/4″ from 1/4chest measurement. If chest 36″ means 1/4*36″= 9″ so.. 9″-3/4″= 8 1/4″. hope u understand… happy sewing..

  13. Hi
    While searching trendy neckline cutting
    For kurti seen ur useful tutorial. Awesome . Please give different neckline cutting and sewing

  14. Hi,

    I have been facing some problem in armhole depth and its measurement when the front neck and back neck is deep. sometimes I get excess fabric at the front armhole and sometimes it is tight on the body. Please clarify my doubt; here the round bust (not chest, please make sure if for chest line chest round needs to be taken) measurement is 41.

    1. Hi.. Dillip .. Do u give curve line for front armhole part in sleeve… if the excess fabric in sleeve.. u have to give a perfect curve {Shape 0-x-3 front armhole curve} or if it is in kameez armhole portion.. make sure to give a perfect curve {Shape (6-x’-3) front armhole curve.} hope it is helpful.. Happy sewing

  15. Thanks dear Kirthi. I am a man of 51 years, a food and dairy technologist and got interested in stitching for myself and my daughter and wife during my leisure. Your tips for salvar kurta are very easy to follow and taking this learning to appease my near ones. Thanks.

  16. Hai mam, my daughter is 12 yes old. She is very thin. Now a days churidars and tops are not suit for her. If she wear leggings or jean her leg is like a stick I feel very bad for that but she looks good. I don’t know which type of dress she wear. Pls tell me mam. Recent days I m very upset about this. I will wait for ur reply

    1. Hi jeevitha.. i’m facing this same problem now… because my 10 yrs old daughter also very skinny… here some tips that may help you… *The best tops are simple, fairly fitted ones that have some detail like ruffles or pockets to fill out your slim appearance. *wide leg and flared jeans(flare should starts blow knee) *you can choose high waist dresses *don’t choose too tight as well as too loose fit. i hope this will help to your daughter and you.

  17. To add s.a in arm hole shoul I add to 0-2 or 2-3 , I didn’t understand where to add seam a. In neck line and in figure didn’t find 8′

    1. Hi.. Nisha.. Thanks to mention that.. 8′ end of back slit opening(That bold line starts from 8 and that ends in 8′). S A should be added in 6-x’-3 & 6-x-3 of the armhole area in kameez. I hope u understand.. Happy sewing..

  18. Hello Keerthi it was very easy to understand the cutting pattern I am eagerly waiting for your next pattern I will be. happy. If. You teach. ME frock with Peter pan collar

  19. mam can u expalin about the dart which we keep in kurti or kameez we have the hip dart and bust dart can u tell where we need to keep and measurement also how to stitch

    1. Hi.. ANu.. Usually we don’t give any darts for straight Kameez. It’s a casual wear.. You can see dart details in circular Anarkali and Lehenga choli Tutorial.

  20. Hi Madam can u tell arm hole marking and cutting for sleeve and sleeveless top.
    Also do we need to give front sleeve shape to attach sleeves for readymade dress.

    1. Hi..Jessy…Front arm hole and front sleeve Shape must for any of the dresses for perfect fit and free arm movement.

  21. Hi mam i want to learn stitching.pls i dont anything about measurements.i had seen ur discription but i didnt understood that pls i want to learn.pls mam can u help me.

  22. will u pls tell me how to measure
    0-2
    2-10
    10-12

    or if there is any standardized measurement of these.

    pls

    1. Keerthi Ezhil

      Hi.. Kavita… Pls refer construction details again.. 0-2 has to be calculate.. there is no measurements of 2-10 & 10-12. That is 0-10(shoulder to waist) & 0-12(shoulder to hip or seat). I hope you understand now..

    1. Keerthi Ezhil

      Hi.. vasudeo.. thanks for mentioning… Sorry for your inconvenience… 8-8′ is back slit opening.. I gave measurement details in tutorial… My mark of 8′ is near by 2.

  23. Hi Keerti…i am using only 4 inch length to my sleeve. But when trying to attach the sleeve (1/2″ + 4 ” ” 1 inch) sleeve with the bodice…i’m finding issue….do we have to cut the sleeve differently, if sleeve length is small (like 4″ ) ?
    Please help me…..

  24. Dear Mam..
    I am a beginner. Really it is easy for the beginners. Thanks a lot. Waiting for different patterns of neck tutorial

  25. Dear mam,
    Thank you so much… very nice and easy explanation given by you.
    Do you have any tutorial an collers. Like stand on high neck… etc.

    Can you pls e mail those to me.

    Thank you
    Rashmi

  26. Hi Keerthi,

    Can I follow same construction for cutting kids kameez ? Any other changes have to be made.
    please tell.

  27. Hello, This is really great measurement. I have a question. I checked and found that you mentioned 8′ for “Back slit opening” but we didn’t find it. So can you please guide us where is 8′ point so we can measure it too.

    Thanks

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