SHIRT SLEEVE-CUFF-COLLAR DRAFTING

We are already know the drafting details of shirt front, back and yoke pieces (If you want to go through our previous tutorial (CLICK HERE). Now we are going to see here shirt sleeve-cuff-collar drafting and cutting details of the fabric with the help of drafts and sewing instructions.

Construction details:

Sleeves:

0-1   = 1/6^th armhole circumference

0-2   = sleeve length (shoulder to wrist)

1-3   =½ armhole circumference

Connect 0-3 and divide that line into 3 equal parts then mark that as 0’ & 3’ as shown in draft picture.

A is 3/8” above from 0’

B is ¼” below from 3’

Shape front armhole by joining 0-a-b-3

C is ¾” above from 0’

D is 3/8” above from 3’

Shape back armhole by joining 0-c-d-3

2-2’      = ¼”

2’-4      = ½ wrist around +2½” or 2/3^rd of 1-3

Join 4-2 & 4-3

5 is midpoint of 3-4. Join 5-3 with inside curve line.

Join 4-2 ¼” inside curve for sleeve’s front side only.

6 is midpoint of 4’-2 and make 6” cuff opening for sleeve’s front side only.

Cuff:

7-8 & 9-10       = 2½”

8-9 & 7-10      = ½ wrist around + ¾”

Give curved edge in 10.

Collar construction:

0-1 & 2-3       = 3”

0-4 & 3-5       = 1¾”

0-3 & 1-2       = ½ neck around measurement

6 is midpoint of 0-3 and 6’ is midpoint of 4-5

3’ is 1½” above from 3. Join 6-3’

x is 1½” from 5 and x’ is ¼” below from x. join x’-3’

7 is marked 1½” away from 2 and 2’ ¼” above from 2.

Now join 7-2’-x’-6’ with curved lines (refer Draft)

Cutting line: 0-6-3’-x-x’-6’- 4 for collar. 0-4 on fold

1-7-2’-x’-6’-4 for collar stand. 4-1 on fold

You can use this same draft for single piece collar also, but here we are going to do this as two piece collar i.e., Collar and collar stand.

Pocket:

Need a simple rectangular piece of 4 ¼” x 6” (this includes seam allowance).

Cutting instructions:

• Now we are going to cut our fabric with the help of drafts. First thing we have to press our fabric so that draft lays there perfectly without any wrinkle. I think it’s one of the most important steps.
• First place fabric fold in half with selvages together without any shrink. Above image is only for your reference about seam allowances for each draft pieces, which is not for draft placing instruction. You can place wherever, but remember the fold lines.
• Place draft perfectly and secured with pin or weight then mark on fabric with your fabric marker. Make sure about seam allowances all around mentioned in draft details image.
• Place Shirt’s back piece fold line 1” away from fabric fold line for Back pleats (refer image) and mark.
• All drafts are marked now. So remove drafts from fabric. Again secure the fabric with pin or weight for cutting purpose.
• Cut the marked fabric. We’ll also need to cut our interlining for collar, collar stand, and cuff and buttonhole placket. For button stand and pocket mouth interlinings are optional.
• We are going to cut interlining for Collar, Collar stand and cuff by using draft. For buttonhole placket need 1” strip interlining is enough.

Now we are ready to sew our shirt. Sewing instruction with images is in our next tutorial….within few days…