COULD BE SAID THAT DRAPING FABRICS ON A BODY OR MANNEQUIN IS WHAT VIVIENNE WESTWOOD SAID “LEARN ACTING”.
Draping is a technique that has been used since a long time in the past.
As John Galliano said “It is basically related to engineering, rather than anything else. It’s about finding the limits of what is possible to drape fabric body. Everything evolves. Nothing strictly defined.”
It could be describe as a process similar to sculpt the body with fabric.
Who do they create those silhouettes? Creating volume.
Then we have that to create a volume in fashion have to be excess of fabric on the garment.
It says that a garment have volume when it doesn’t suits on the curves of the body, instead designers and dressmakers create a new silhouette.
So designers such Viktor and Rolf for example have been influenced on techniques of draping and moulage and the applications to their sketches for a design.
Moulage and draping used for the designers over the mannequin with a toile or muslin recreates garments.
Moulage and draping is a process to create pattern and shapes for the garments that consist in manipulate tissue directly on a mannequin.
Bending, folding, wrinkling, and place a cloth in a three-dimensional support allows the designer to work with more complex forms and techniques, which are often very difficult to develop or cut flat patterns.
To draping a fabric and create a design is not necessary the pattern help, however the pattern created with the fabric on the mannequin, marked with dry pen dashes over the body of tri-dimensional virtual person can create the pattern on a plan fabric such a muslin or toile.
A fabric covering is a part of a design process. This process can create new ideas for research, and that can not be able to create with the sketch alone.
Extract abstract forms from the elements inspire and explore its potential on a mannequin is a much more expressive way to develop ideas for garments that only draw.
Also this technique helps the designers to understand better the sketches by tri-dimensional helps on a mannequin.
The word itself speaks drape fabric folds and movement, so it is essential to possess a basic knowledge of the qualities of the fabrics.
Quality, fall, structure and malleability of a fabric represented on the mannequin play an important role both in appearance and in its result during the modeling process and draping.
The draping is done on a mannequin that acts as a body. Placing a thin ribbon fastened by pins outlining the seams or lines of the body.
How do moulage:
You must choose a fabric cut straight or bias. That is necessary to select before if you are going to design a garment with a fabric fall.
It could be muslin or toile. This fabric can be cut as a square with dimensions 35 per 35 inchs for example. Fixed by pins on the right side of the dummy, as you prefer. The fabric you should note from the center point of the neck to the waist if you are going to create a simple basic blouse.
Could be secured with pins the center of basic blouse. Always mark the center of the bust. Hold from neck to waist. Shaping the bust side using tweezers, and excess tissue is cut through small cuts.
DRAPED OR MOULAGE ACHIEVED SHAPES AND VOLUMES THAT CAN BE ENDLESSLY CREATED.