Various Types of Jamdani Saris Patterns –
Whether figured or flowered, jamdani is a woven fabric in cotton, and it is undoubtedly one of the varieties of the finest muslin. It has been spoken of as the most artistic textile of the Bangladeshi weave Jamdani refers to an ancient fine cotton fabric of Bengali origin called muslin woven with floral or geometric designs. Traditionally woven around Dhaka and created on the loom brocade, Jamdani is fabulously rich in motifs. Jamdani uniquely features geometric design patterns along with plant and floral designs which are said to originate in Persian and Mughal fusion thousands of years ago. According to the design patterns, Jamdanis have been named differently as panna hajar, dubli lala, butidar with small flowers spread all over the sari field, tersa small flowers arranged in reclined position, jalar naksha creeper leaves covering the entire sari field, flowers arranged in rows covering the entire sari field, duria spot design all over the field, charkona, belwari with colorful golden borders used to be made during the Mughal period, especially for the women of the inner court etc.
The fineness and quality of Jamdani sari depends usually on the art of making yarns. For quality Jamdani they used yarn of 200 to 250 counts. Jamdani designs are made while the fabric is still on the loom. Coarse yarns are used for designs to make the motifs rise above the fabric.
Jamdani patterns are mostly of geometric, plant, and floral designs and are said to originate in Persian and Mughal fusion thousands of years ago. There can be designs with peacocks and leaves of creepers.
Various types of Jamdani Saris are-
These saris are very fine textured just resembling muslin. The workmanship employed to these saris is very elaborate where the single warp is usually ornamented with two extra weft followed by ground weft. They have multicolored linear or floral motifs all over the body and border and have an exquisitely designed elaborate pallu. The mango motif signifying fertility, growth, and marital bliss is a very popular design in Daccai Jamdani saris. They are woven painstakingly by hand on the old fashioned Jala loom, and many take even up to one year to weave a single sari. It feels supple to the touch and drapes gently to reveal the contours of the wearer.
These saris feature highly stylized jamdani motifs on tangail fabrics fine textured fabric with 100s count. The traditional tangail borders had a paddo lotus pattern, pradeep lamp pattern apart from the popular aansh paar which was common to Shantipur. From the use of a single colour on the border, they began to use 2 to 3 colours to give it a meenakari effect.
They characterize powder fine texture of the sari and are much similar to tangail jamdnais.
These jamdanis have tighter weave as compared to tangail and shantipur jamdanis. Dhaniakhali Jamdani saris are known for their stripes and checks and are woven in bold colours with contrasting borders.