Circular / Umbrella Anarkali Draft – Sewing

Circular Anarkali designingAnarkali is famed Indian outfit of Indian women. This Model is invented of a long, frock-style top and features a lean fitted bottom. It is an extremely attractive style that is adorned by women located in Northern India, Pakistan and The Middle East. The Anarkali suit varies in several different lengths and embroideries including floor length Anarkali styles. Many women will also choose heavier embroidered Anarkali suits for wedding functions and various other occasions as well as traditional festivals.  The Kameez of the Anarkali can be sleeveless or with sleeves range from cap- to wrist-length.

Here I give Circular / Umbrella Anarkali draft & sewing details for u… Now you are going to learn a new dress style. More important is, u don’t want to purchase them.  Just go through this tutorial and make your own Anarkali…


Length  –

Chest     –


Waist length-

Waist –

Hip         –


Sleeve length-

Round arm-

Neck width-

Front & Back Neck depth-

Material Required:

2 ½ Mtrs to 4Mtrs (depends up on your need of flare)

Umbrella Anarkali bodice Cutting

Construction: Front & Back Bodice

(0-1)    = Bodice length (waist length)

(0-2)   = Armhole depth = ¼ chest – 1”(for Medium figure) or 2”(for heavier figure)

(2-3)     = Chest line = ¼ chest + 1” (for Tight fit) or 2” (for loose fit)

(5-6)     = Shoulder drop = 1cm

(0-5) & (2-6’) = ½ shoulder

(0-7)     = Neck width

(0-8)     = Back neck depth

(0-9)     = Front neck depth

X is mid point of 6-6’.                    (x-x’)  = 1cm

Shape (6-x-3) back armhole curve.

Shape (6-x’-3) front armhole curve.

Measure 6-x’-3 it should be more than ½ armhole by 3 to 4cms.

(1-4)     = ¼ waist + 1” or 2” (same as chest line)


Point a is 1/3rd distance of (1-4) from 1.

Point b is 2.5” straight upward line from a.

Mark 1.5cms both sides from point a. join from that mark to b.

Cutting line:

9-7-6-x’-3-11-13-4’-1                    (9-1) on fold

8-7-6-x-3-11-13-4’-1                     (8-1) on fold

Cut 8-8’ on fold for back neck slit opening (Neck slit opening need only at the circumference of head is lesser than neck circumference)

Umbrella Anarkali skirt cutting

Construction: Skirt

(0-1), (0-2), (0-3), (0-4) = 1/6 waist.

m is the mid point of (1-2) & n is the mid point of (2-3)

(1-4), (m-o), (2-5), (n-p), (3-6) = Full Length – Bodice Length

(1-x), (3-y) = 2 cms inside.

(1-x), (3-y) = 1/4 hip – 2 cms.

Join (x-y) & (x’-y’)

For Border: Measure along the hem line.

Cutting line:


Seam Allowance:

¼” on neck line, armhole and back neck slit open

1” on side seams

1½” on hemlines

seam allowance.

neck line with 1/4 gether. pin leeveser than neck circumference)

Sewing Instructions:

  1. Now you have 2 Pieces of Anarkali (Front and Back bodice) 2 Pieces of Sleeve (Right and Left) (Click HERE for petal sleeve draft & instructions) and 1 circular skirt piece.
  2. First finish the dart lines both front & back bodice.
  3. Click HERE to Refer Straight Kameez sewing instruction to finish Neck line, Sleeve attachment and shoulder joining for Anarkali bodice.
  4. Next we are going to attach the skirt part to the bodice. Click HERE to refer sewing instruction of this skirt part and attaching border on hem line. Avoid the Waist band instruction and side seam joining from the above link (if u are following the instruction of skirt draft, skirt doesn’t have any side seams, there is only darts).
  5. Note: If you want to finish hemline with out border, fold the hemline ½” inside and fold 1” again. Then sew along the edge of first fold on hemline.
  6. Then attach the skirt into Bodice part by facing right sides together.

Now your Circular / Umbrella Anarkali is ready…..


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