Circular / Umbrella Anarkali Draft – Sewing

Circular Anarkali designingAnarkali is famed Indian outfit of Indian women. The Anarkali suit is invented of a long, frock-style top and features a lean fitted bottom. The Anarkali is an extremely attractive style that is adorned by women located in Northern India, Pakistan and The Middle East. The Anarkali suit varies in several different lengths and embroideries including floor length Anarkali styles. Many women will also choose heavier embroidered Anarkali suits for wedding functions and various other occasions as well as traditional festivals.  The Kameez of the Anarkali can be sleeveless or with sleeves range from cap- to wrist-length.

Here I give Circular / Umbrella Anarkali draft & sewing details for u… Now you are going to learn a new dress style. More important is, u don’t want to purchase them.  Just go through this tutorial and make your own Anarkali…


Length  –

Chest     –


Waist length-

Waist –

Hip         –


Sleeve length-

Round arm-

Neck width-

Front & Back Neck depth-

Material Required:

2 ½ Mtrs to 4Mtrs (depends up on your need of flare)

Umbrella Anarkali bodice Cutting

Construction: Front & Back Bodice

(0-1)    = Bodice length (waist length)

(0-2)   = Armhole depth = ¼ chest – 1”(for Medium figure) or 2”(for heavier figure)

(2-3)     = Chest line = ¼ chest + 1” (for Tight fit) or 2” (for loose fit)

(5-6)     = Shoulder drop = 1cm

(0-5) & (2-6’) = ½ shoulder

(0-7)     = Neck width

(0-8)     = Back neck depth

(0-9)     = Front neck depth

X is mid point of 6-6’.                    (x-x’)  = 1cm

Shape (6-x-3) back armhole curve.

Shape (6-x’-3) front armhole curve.

Measure 6-x’-3 it should be more than ½ armhole by 3 to 4cms.

(1-4)     = ¼ waist + 1” or 2” (same as chest line)


Point a is 1/3rd distance of (1-4) from 1.

Point b is 2.5” straight upward line from a.

Mark 1.5cms both sides from point a. join from that mark to b.

Cutting line:

9-7-6-x’-3-11-13-4’-1                    (9-1) on fold

8-7-6-x-3-11-13-4’-1                     (8-1) on fold

Cut 8-8’ on fold for back neck slit opening (Neck slit opening need only at the circumference of head is lesser than neck circumference)

Umbrella Anarkali skirt cutting

Construction: Skirt

(0-1), (0-2), (0-3), (0-4) = 1/6 waist.

m is the mid point of (1-2) & n is the mid point of (2-3)

(1-4), (m-o), (2-5), (n-p), (3-6) = Full Length – Bodice Length

(1-x), (3-y) = 2 cms inside.

(1-x), (3-y) = 1/4 hip – 2 cms.

Join (x-y) & (x’-y’)

For Border: Measure along the hem line.

Cutting line:


Seam Allowance:

¼” on neck line, armhole and back neck slit open

1” on side seams

1½” on hemlines

seam allowance.

neck line with 1/4 gether. pin leeveser than neck circumference)

Sewing Instructions:

  1. Now you have 2 Pieces of Anarkali (Front and Back bodice) 2 Pieces of Sleeve (Right and Left) (Click HERE for petal sleeve draft & instructions) and 1 circular skirt piece.
  2. First finish the dart lines both front & back bodice.
  3. Click HERE to Refer Straight Kameez sewing instruction to finish Neck line, Sleeve attachment and shoulder joining for Anarkali bodice.
  4. Next we are going to attach the skirt part to the bodice. Click HERE to refer sewing instruction of this skirt part and attaching border on hem line. Avoid the Waist band instruction and side seam joining from the above link (if u are following the instruction of skirt draft, skirt doesn’t have any side seams, there is only darts).
  5. Note: If you want to finish hemline with out border, fold the hemline ½” inside and fold 1” again. Then sew along the edge of first fold on hemline.
  6. Then attach the skirt into Bodice part by facing right sides together.

Now your Circular / Umbrella Anarkali is ready…..

Keerthi Ezhil

I am a person with interested in sewing & fashion. I am always thinking about the wasted materials... Whenever I crossed the tailor shops I felt bad..that wasted materials also bought for money..these thoughts push me up to learn sewing. afterwards i improved my talent to do fashionable dresses for my daughter.. I always mentioned to use the leftover materials to use small pouch, handbag, little girls dress, small accessories...for my students. Now that experience took me to the next level.. Here I'm going to share my experience to all of u through these tutorials.

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20 Responses

  1. roney12 says:

    Thx for the tutorial Ezhil 🙂 Grt Job pa, skirt part is little bit confusing pa , its a panel umbrella skirt or normal umbrella pattern can u pls clarify it pa.
    Happy Sewing

    • Keerthi Ezhil says:

      Hi..Roney.. Thank u…
      That’s normal one dear.. I mentioned cross lines in draft are help to draw a perfect hemline.. Just ignore the dotted lines.
      I hope you understand… Happy sewing… 🙂

  2. Nirmala says:

    Hello Keerthi
    I am glad to see your sewing classes.i am enjoying it.i will try to sew for my granddaughter.many thanks to you for your efforts

  3. sandhya says:

    Hai Keerthi,
    I am from kottayam l happened to come across ur tutorial on pintrest very usefull one thanxs for the post
    I had a slight confusion with the measurements your tutorial cleared my doubts can u pls post a tutorial on puff sleeves I always make mistake

  4. dhara says:

    hi mam,
    your explanation was superb. but i need drafting and sewing method for circular lehenga and can u tel which material will suite perfectly to sew lehenga?

    • Keerthi Ezhil says:

      Hi.. dhara.. there are lots of materials used for lehenga sewing but we have to chose light weight material for circular lehenga and medium and heavy weight material for kali lehenga..

  5. Arthy says:

    Very informative and useful tips.would like to see all your posts and keep in touch…how do I stay connected to your posts

  6. anitamary says:

    I have done umbrella anarkali chudi but in the middle looks more cloth but in left and right side it is small and looks very uneven what to do

    • Keerthi Ezhil says:

      do u mean the front length and sides are vary? if it is.. make sure about the measurements of skirt portion. (1-4), (2-5) & (3-6) should be same.

  7. Navdeep kaur says:

    hello ma’m
    i just want to ask you that how many meters cloth i will be needed to sew 50″ long anarkali suit (with bodice)?

  8. Nisha says:

    Is it possible for you to show all allowances while drawing by dotted line so it will be easy ……Nisha

  9. Harsha says:

    Hi Mam, Need some help i have 3.5 mtrs net material and lining malai satin of 6 mtrs which anarkali can i do … Cld plz suggest me how much i required for anarkali

    • Keerthi Ezhil says:

      Hi.. Harsha.. Material requirement depends upon the measurements. for grown up girls (Length of anarkali approx. 46″) you need 6mtrs of each material. It may vary with individuals.

  10. Poornima says:

    Is video available ..if it is so will be usefull

  11. Gayathri S says:

    Really excellent mam…. got a very clear idea as a beginner…..

  12. Babitha says:

    Hello Keerthi,
    I am a beginner and I found your blog easy for people like me. Thank you so much for that. Could you pls suggest if i will b able to stitch a circular umbrella anarkali with a silk cotton material that i have with heavy border and it is 2 1/2 mts.

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